Sights - Lassithi Prefecture

Lassithi Plateau - Kroustallenia Monastery

 

The Panagia Kroustallenia monastery lies on a 15 m high hill north of Agios Konstantinos. The monastery is dedicated to The Passing Away of the Virgin Mary, celebrated on August 15th.

It is not known with certainty when the monastery was founded, but a relief, once built-in above the door, mentions the year 1241. The church was then dedicated to St John the Baptist.
Through the beautiful entrance-gate, you enter the court, where new monk's cells and guestrooms for laymen are being built at the moment.

To the left are the monk's cells and other administrative rooms.

 

At the end of the building is an oak tree, solidly planted in a large rock with the local name of Agiocharako (Holy Rock). The tree has no less than 18 trunks, each symbolizing one of the villages of the Lassithi plateau: Tzermiado, Marmaketo, Mesa Lassithi, Mesa Lassithaki, Exo Potami, Mesa Potami, Agios Konstantinos, Agios Georgios, Koudoumalia, Avrakonte, Kaminaki, Magoulas, Psychro, Plati, Agios Charalambos, Kato Metochi, Pinakiano and Lagou.

 

To the right, a long flight of steps leads up to the church and the visitors' reception room.
 

 

In 1272 the Cretan Resistance assembled for a mass in the monastery in order to pray for strength in the struggle against the Venetian rule. Less than 20 years would however pass, until the Venetians prohibited any stay on the Lassithi plateau and destroyed all existing buildings.

 

In the middle of the 16th century, quite a few refugees from Peloponnese settled on Lassithi after the Turkish capture of Nafplion. Among them was the nun, Palladia, who rebuilt the convent.

 

Shortly after the rebuilding, a woman from a nearby village dreamed that Virgin Mary came to her and ordered her to go to a cave near the convent. The woman went to the cave on the following day and found a Panagia icon, which she immediately brought to the convent. From that icon, painted on crystal, the monastery got its name. Unfortunately, the icon disappeared in 1890.

 

 

In the Turkish period the convent had become a monastery. It supported actively the resistance against the Turks, which it had to suffer for, so it was looted and burned down several times.

 

In 1740, a son of the Rovithis family was to be baptised in the church of the monastery. Before that the baptismal font had, however, been destroyed by the janizaries, so the child was baptised in a big casserole (kazani). With the Cretans' sense of humour, the boy immediately got the byname Kazanis. He became the grandfather of the well-known resister Manolis Kazanis.

 

 

The monastery was destroyed again in 1823 during Hassan Pasha's attack on Lassithi, and the French explorer A. Fabreguettes, who visited the monastery in 1834, tells that the monastery had not yet overcome the damages. It was not reopened until 1862.

 

Only five years after the reopening, the monastery was destroyed once again, when the Turks with the help of the Egyptian army led by Ismail Ferik Pasha, captured the plateau. Ismail Pasha was originally the son of a Greek priest from the village of Psychro, but was in 1823 kidnapped and taken to Cairo, where he was brought up as a Muslim. He had great gifts as a leader and was appointed minister of war in Egypt.

 

But fate decided that he several years later would return and destroy his own native town and the Kroustallenia monastery. The story becomes even more grotesque as the Cretan Resistance was partly funded by his brother Antonios, who had accumulated a large fortune in the free Greece. After the battle, Ismail was killed by the Turks who feared that he might remember his childhood years and perhaps was secretly Christian (Crypto Christian).

 

After this the monastery was allowed to work quietly until World War II, where Greek forces took refuge in the monastery. The monastery superintendent Ermolaos Kasapakis also took an active part in the resistance movement and was arrested twice.

 

 

In February 1943 the Italian occupying forces turned the monastery into an internment camp for political captives. During this period great damage was done to the buildings, as the occupiers walled up all the windows and doors except for one, in order to be in control of the captives. They also cut down all the old trees around the monastery, smashed all the storage pitchers and tore off the roof of the monk's cells in order to use the materials for the construction of observation posts at Seli Ambelou. The monks first fled to the Vidiani monastery, but a few months later they had to flee from there too. Not until after the Italian surrender in 1944, the monks were able to return to the monastery.

 

In addition to its participation in the various Cretan rebellions, the monastery had as early as the Turkish period founded a basic school for the children of the Lassithi plateau. Until 1870 it was the only school of the plateau. The pupils were taught reading and writing plus the practical agricultural subjects, for which reason they had a small piece of land of their own to look after.

 

The available ecclesiastical books were used as teaching materials, and every time the pupils had finished a book, they were moved up to the next class.

 

In 1912 the monastery school was moved to the village of Mesa Lassithi, but most of the parents preferred the school to be within the framework of the monastery, so it was moved back in 1914. The school was closed down in 1925 when new schools were established in Marmaketo, Agios Konstantinos and Mesa Lassithi.

 

The monastery also took care of many of the religious ceremonies in the area, for example, until World War II, the tradition of blessing the soil in order to achieve a large harvest. The ceremony took place in spring and spread over three days.

 

In the morning of the first day, they celebrated mass in the Kroustallenia monastery, after which the monks and the highest priest of Lassithi took the icons, the "exapterygo" (metal plates with depictions of the seraphs), the cross and banners from the church and walked in procession to Agios Konstantinos. Here another mass was celebrated, and then they continued to Mesa Lassithi and Marmaketo, ending with an evening mass in Tzermiado.

The following morning began with yet another mass in Tzermiado after which they continued to Lagou and Pinakiano. Believers and nuns from the Panagia Kera convent north of the plateau now joined the procession, bringing the miracle-creating Panagia icon. From here they all continued to the Vidiani monastery, Kato Metochi, Agios Charalambos, Plati, and Psychro where evening mass was celebrated.
Panagia Kera Convent

 

The third day began again with a morning mass before continuing to Magoulas, Kaminaki, Avrakonte, Agios Georgios, and to St John the Baptist's church on the plateau, where the twentieth and last mass was celebrated. Finally the water in the cistern was blessed, so that all those who participated in the procession might have their own part of the blessed water. The ceremony had now finished, and the participants returned to their respective villages with their local priest.

 

 

 

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